Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Winter Supper

Freestyle Weekends #1

Picture this: The first snow of the season covers the ground. It’s evening, dark outside already, but inside the glow of kerosene lamps lights the table around which you and your family gather for a supper of apples, hot buttered popcorn, little pickles, hot cocoa, and cake doughnuts.

Homemade doughnuts, of course.


This tradition is “First Snow Supper,” and it comes to me via the New Hampshire home of my friend Bekki, whom you met a few weeks ago. She sent me this recipe and some Green Mountain coffee to try to save us from the evil clutches of Starbucks. We haven’t tried the coffee yet, but the doughnuts, which we made on a sleepy Saturday morning, sans snow, certainly passed muster.

The dough is very soft, so don’t skip the refrigeration step. I chilled mine overnight and it was still soft in the morning, but rollable.

A word on the potatoes. Russets make the best mashed potatoes. Bekki also uses sweet potatoes in this recipe, so feel free to try those. Whatever potatoes you use, mash them really well. If you leave them lumpy, it won’t matter too much for taste of the doughnuts, as long as the potatoes are cooked through, but aesthetically-speaking, lumps in the middle of a doughnut do not make a pleasing picture. Ask me how I know this.

After the doughnuts emerge from the fryer, drain them briefly and give them a little shimmy in sugar. And then bite into one, still warm, and discover a texture so light you can barely feel it even as you taste its spices and its sweetness.

Kind of makes even a thin-blooded Floridian wish for snow. Not that I’m waiting for it to try these again.

Wicked Good Doughnuts
(makes about 2 ½ dozen)

2 eggs
1 cup sugar
2 cups cold mashed potatoes (mashed with milk and butter)
¾ cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla or almond extract
4 ½ cups all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ginger
oil for deep-fat frying
additional sugar

In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs and the sugar. Add the potatoes, buttermilk, butter, and vanilla; mix well.

In another bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, and ginger; add to the egg mixture and mix well. Cover and refrigerate 1 – 2 hours.

Heat oil to 375 ˚On a floured surface, roll the dough to ½” thickness. Cut with a 2 ½” doughnut cutter. (Or, if you’re like me, with two glasses—one big-mouthed and one small-mouthed.) Fry the doughnuts, a few at a time, for about 2 minutes on each side, or until browned. Fry the doughnut holes, too, for about a minute on each side. Drain on paper towels layered over brown paper grocery bags. Roll in sugar, if desired.

7 comments:

  1. Shimmy. I love that word. Shimmy, shimmy, shimmy (shake). Sounds like my staid New England doughnuts got all sassy on their spring break in Jax!
    Just a thought about the texture of the dough. The flour up here is so tough our biscuits ride out of the oven on Harleys. I wonder if the softer southern flour gave you a slacker dough than I normally get?

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  2. OK, this is going to sound "redneck" but will the donuts float on the oil? I was thinking of using our turkey fryer to do this. What type of oil would you suggest?

    -John

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  3. Hi Rachel! I'm posting as anonymous, but it's Lauri Barnes. :-)

    That doughnut recipe looks amazing! I was a little curious about the whole pickle and doughnut combination (call it a pregnant woman's obsession with weird pairings), so I had to look it up. It seems to be a common Vermont thing with something called "sugar on snow":

    (from http://www.buffummaple.com/recipes.html)
    Sugar On Snow
    Use one gallon of 100% Pure Maple Syrup for 35 to 40 people. Thoroughly grease inside rim of large kettle. Heat syrup. Watch pot: turn heat down if syrup threatens to boil over. When candy thermometer reaches 234 degrees F. spoon a tablespoon of syrup over packed snow or well- crushed ice. If the liquid sugar clings to a fork as soft "waxy" taffy, it's ready. Cool slightly. Pour over snow or ice. Serve with dill or sour pickles and doughnuts.

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  4. Bekki, I believe I used King Arthur flour, which is supposed to yield tender results across the board. The dough WAS very soft. Wrapped in plastic and patted into a disk for its chill-time, it slumped over the edges of my hands as I carried it to the fridge.

    John, yes the doughnuts will float. When the bottom is browned, flip them over. I cooked them in about an inch and a half of oil in my cast iron skillet, but you could use the fryer if you wanted to. I used canola oil because it's relatively light. Shortening would work well and peanut oil would be delicious, albeit expensive.

    Laurie, here's what Bekki told me about the tradition:

    "'Sugaring' Donuts is one of the oldest traditions in America. When the sap starts running in late February, the sugar houses will boil some down to the soft ball stage, drizzle it on pans full of snow,and serve the taffy-like candy. This treat is traditionally served with homemade whole wheat cake doughnuts and big dill pickles. I remember my grandpa calling those heavy donuts 'sinkers.'"

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  5. Cake doughnuts are yummy! Unfortunately,I hate deep frying because my house smells like grease for days afterward. Maybe some day I'll get brave enough to try them. :)

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  6. Waiting to read about your trying another New England tradition: bean soup with ham.

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  7. Funny you should say that, Anonymous, for I just made that very dish last weekend, in the kitchen of another dear friend of mine. I hope to write about it soon.

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