I'll Miss Her

When I heard the news yesterday that Gourmet magazine is going out of print, though I’ve been a subscriber for only two years, I felt bereft. Gourmet has provided me a classic armchair experience into foods I might have otherwise not known and places to which I might never have gone. The magazine has inspired me to try new ingredients and to make up recipes based on descriptions of dishes. I’ll miss it.


The recipe for today was inspired by a brief mention on p. 85 of the October 2009 issue of a dish served at Rosario’s in San Antonio: “grilled shrimp [tacos] with lime-doused cabbage slaw and chipotle mayo.” I thought I could make my own riff, serving the slaw and mayo on steak tacos, which I usually top with fresh tomato salsa. Kevin suggested I make broccoli slaw instead, which we generally prefer to cabbage. Why not go for it all, I thought, and come up with another accompaniment? Then I could have tacos three ways.

Tacos Three Ways (makes about 12 tacos)
1 tablespoon chipotle powder
2 teaspoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon coriander
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 1½- to 2-lb. London broil (or top round; 1½ to 2 inches thick)
kosher salt
24 corn tortillas
Fresh Tomato Salsa
Broccoli-Lime Slaw with Chipotle Mayo
Grilled Pineapple Salsa

In a small bowl, mix together the chipotle, brown sugar, cumin, coriander, and black pepper. Pat meat dry and rub spice mix on both sides. Cover lightly and let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes while you heat the grill.

When the coals are medium-hot, sprinkle the meat with salt and grill, turning once, 8 to 10 minutes total for medium-rare. Let the meat rest about 10 minutes and then slice it as thinly as you can. While the meat is resting, heat a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Cook each tortilla briefly on both sides in the dry, hot skillet, until they are browned, even lightly charred, in spots.

To assemble, stack two tortillas together, pile on the meat, and spoon one of the toppings over.


Fresh Tomato Salsa
I first ate fresh tomato salsa about 13 years ago at a small taco restaurant called Acapulco Fresh. Everything in there was fresh. Really fresh. The kitchen had no microwave and no freezer, and was run by a man named Carlos. He was the manager, the food orderer, the schmoozer, the one who came out from behind the register to talk to us while we were eating. He cried happy tears when we brought in our newborn daughter for him to meet. His cook didn’t say much, but he smiled whenever he saw us and started grilling the steak for my burrito before I ordered. The restaurant had a salsa bar, which is where we fell in love with fresh tomato salsa. It was a sad day when the Acapulco Fresh closed; the only good thing that came out of its closing was that I figured out how to make my own salsa. When we eat it, we wish Carlos would stop by for a chat.

4 medium Roma tomatoes, (about 1 lb.), seeded and diced
½ medium onion, diced
½ cup chopped cilantro
juice of 1 large lime (3 to 4 tablespoons)
2 cloves of garlic, minced
½ to 1 teaspoon kosher salt
a few grinds black pepper, to taste
a few drops of hot sauce, to taste

Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl.


Broccoli-Lime Slaw with Chipotle Mayo
Yes, this dish does have mayonnaise in the slaw and an additional mayonnaise spread. But the slaw is a bit on the dry side for topping tacos. It has just enough dressing to hold it together. If you want to serve the slaw separately, say, with fried chicken or grilled hamburgers, and I recommend you do, double the mayonnaise and sour cream, but not the lime juice. Adjust the seasonings to taste.

for the slaw:
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 teaspoon lime zest
juice of 1 medium lime (about 3 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon sugar
salt and pepper to taste
1 12-oz bag broccoli slaw
½ cup chopped parsley
4 to 6 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)

Combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, lime zest and juice, sugar, and salt and pepper in a small bowl. In another bowl, mix broccoli slaw, parsley, and scallions. Pour the mayonnaise mixture over and toss to coat.

for the chipotle mayo:
2 chipotles from a can of chipotles in adobo sauce
1 teaspoon adobo sauce from the can, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon lime juice
½ cup mayonnaise

Finely chop the chipotles and put them with the extra sauce in a small bowl. Stir in the lime juice and mayonnaise and mix well. Add more adobo sauce or lime juice, to taste.

Grilled Pineapple Salsa
1 large pineapple
1 large clove garlic
½ to 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 poblano pepper, seeded and chopped
juice from one lime (3 to 4 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried, crushed

First, prep the pineapple. Cut of the top and bottom. Working your way around the pineapple and using a thin sharp knife, cut off the rind and eyes. Cut the pineapple from top to bottom into slabs ½ inch thick. Discard core. You should have about 12 ounces of pineapple. Set it aside.

Make a garlic paste by first mincing the garlic and then sprinkling on the kosher salt. Using the heel of your hand, press the flat of your knife over the pile of minced garlic and salt, and smear it. Scrape the mixture into a pile and repeat, adding a bit more salt if necessary, and mincing and smearing until you have a nice garlic paste. Transfer it to a medium bowl and add the poblano, lime juice, and thyme.

Grill the pineapple slabs over a medium-hot flame until slightly charred and softened. Cut it into ½-inch cubes and add it to the garlic-poblano mixture. Stir.

I’d love to hear from you. If you have enjoyed Gourmet magazine, or tacos, or a special restaurant with a gregarious manager, I hope you’ll post about it.